Cut is also particularly notable because the art, science and craft of cutting stones are applicable to a variety of gemstones, not just diamonds. Gemstones of all sorts have been worked into faceted form for centuries.
Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Light earrings in white gold and yellow gold: round and baguette-cut diamonds, two emerald‑cut Fancy Vivid Orangey Yellow diamonds
It is important, first of all, to note that while cuts are related to the shape of both the rough and the final stone, the term 'cut' is not specifically related to shape. Technically, cut refers to symmetry, proportions and polish; the main purpose of the exercise is to maximize the shine and luster of any given gemstone. To be more poetic about it, the goal is to bring forth the inner life of the stone so that the world might see it. This is why people are sometimes called diamonds in the rough.
For the purposes of this story, we will be focusing exclusively on the contemporary processes relating to the cut. You will not fail to notice quite a number of newer cuts in our illustrated guide and that is because modern tools and science have allowed gem cutters to do things never before possible. Bear in mind that standards are still evolving in some cases, and there is no ideal facet count, and indeed, no easy way to determine the worth of these newcomers, in terms of timeless appeal.
See page 2 for our selected list of cuts.
Chopard ring in white gold with three round-cut diamonds, one round-cut spinel, 10 pear-cut multicolor spinels, 153 multicolor saphhires, one pear-cut amethyst and one pear-cut tourmaline
Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Light earrings in white gold and yellow gold: round and baguette-cut diamonds, two emerald‑cut Fancy Vivid Orangey Yellow diamonds
Round Cut - Also called brilliant cut, this is the most ubiquitous cut and shape, and the gold standard for diamonds. Some reports indicate that this cut accounts for up to 75 per cent of diamonds sold today. The 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.
Oval Cut - One might think the oval cut would have existed for a long time, but it was actually pioneered in the 1960s. This is an even and perfectly symmetrical design featuring 56 facets. Like the marquise, it is a modified round cut. The elongated shape here gives the stone more visual heft, so an oval-cut stone may appear larger than a round cut stone of the same weight.
Marquise Cut - Here is a cut with an interesting tale of its own: Legend has it that the diamond-loving Louis XIV commissioned this cut to match the unrivalled smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. It follows then that this cut is an elongated shape that comes to a point at both ends, with softly rounded sides. Like the oval cut, the marquise cut enhances the visual appeal of the stone, appearing larger than round cuts of the same carat weight.
Pear Cut - The oval and marquise cuts come together brilliantly in the pear cut, no pun intended. Technically, this is also a modified round cut with 58 facets. It has all the visual virtues of the elongated shapes but it also adds a delightful asymmetry into the mix.
Princess Cut - Hailing from the 1980s, this cut is a relative newcomer, but has proven quite popular, especially in North America. This is a square or rectangular cut that often burns more brightly than the typical round cut. Another more material advantage of the princess cut is that it requires the least amount of wastage of the rough stone of all cuts.
Heart Shape Cut - This cut is what happens when you take the pear cut and put a cleft at the widest point. As a symbol of romance, this cut cannot be beaten, but it certainly earns no points for subtlety. It works best with larger stones, and is not typically as available as the round cut; this cut reportedly takes more skill to accomplish properly. This might affect the overall price.
Asscher Cut - Developed by the Asscher company of Amsterdam in the early 20th century, this brilliant square was the ancestor of the radiant cut. The idea was to combine the emerald cut with the round cut, in a form characterised by extreme symmetry and dramatically-cut corners. Like the emerald cut, this one is unforgiving of inclusions and poor colour.
Trilliant Cut - Also developed by the Asscher company, and brought into contemporary times in New York in the 1960s, this cut is exceptional in its scintillating properties. Essentially triangular, it is distinguished by curved or straight sides, with pointed corners or rounded ones. Given the right depth of the stone, the trilliant may be more impressive than the round, but the jury is still out.
Radiant Cut - By combining the virtues of the round and the emerald cuts, gem cutters developed this cut in the 1970s. With between 62 and 70 facets, the radiant differs from the newer princess cut in that its corners are trimmed. This cut is basically what happens when gemcutters add a dash of scintillation to the sobriety of the emerald.
Cushion Cut - The most old school cut on this list, the cushion is an update of the Old Mine cut from the 18th century. Essentially a pillow-shaped cut with 58 facets, this cut has stood the test of time, and is today, both classical yet daring. With rounded corners and facets typically larger than that in a round cut of similar proportion, the cushion cut works best with better stones.
Emerald Cut - A rectangular shape with cut corners, this is a very old cut that is particularly unforgiving to inferior stones. It is known as a step cut because its concentric, broad and flat planes resemble stair steps. Inclusions and poor colour are more obvious in this cut while brilliance is reduced. This is a very striking cut for larger stones and typically has 50 to 58 facets. The inclusion-enhancement is also striking when it comes to emeralds, where inclusions add to the visual beauty of the stone.
Baguette Cut - Achieving popularity during the Art Deco period, this is basically a modified emerald cut. Typically long and rectangular, the baguette-cut diamond has octagonal corners and step cuts, with 14 facets.
Three-Dimensional Cuts - These cuts are all identical on every side, with patterns repeated across the stone. Where the typical stone shows one main face to the world, these cuts are designed to be truly multi-faceted. The nature of these cuts makes them best suited as pendants and earrings. Here are four variants: briolette cut, drop cut, olive cut, ball cut.
